Left the B&B with my 4kg daysack to find the guys with their 14kg rucksacks, and we headed west on the start of our longest day – maybe 14 miles – down to Caerthillian Cove before turning north for Kynance Cove and coffee. A pleasing climb out of Kynance with views of mist shrouded headlands behind us.
The rest of the day was walking north with lots of up and down. Lunch at Mullion in a pleasingly old-fashioned cafe where we met a couple walking the same route in the other direction. They confirmed a rumour we had heard – there is a 2.5 mile diversion away from the coastal path immediately after we cross Loe Bar.
The same storms which caused the diversion had also damaged the existing drainage system which allowed the water of Loe Pool to reach the sea – so heavy engineering had been called in to create new channels under the Bar. The diversion made a pleasant change from coastal cliffs. The Penrose Estate is National Trust, nicely manicured and open to walkers and cyclists. Instead of following the diversion back to the coastal path we cut through suburban Porthleven to our campsite, leading to a significant change of plans – my first pint was in ‘Out of the Blue’ rather than the Ship. It was tough, but I coped. After a shower and a change of clothes (including dry shoes for the novelty value) we walked into town for dinner (more fish pie) and a jar or two at the Ship, then back to camp for a last pint and sleep.
When we were packing I remembered to rescue my frying pan from the long grass where I left it 4 days earlier. Snails had done a great job of cleaning away burnt bacon and fat, far better than I could have done with cold water and no detergent. A quick wipe round with a square of kitchen roll and it was ready for use!
We were in Penzance, parked near the harbour and seeking breakfast by 10am.