On our return to Agnes from St Martins we ate on the campsite, cooking a ratatouille, new potatoes and some cannellini beans. There may have been drinking at the Turks Head afterwards – who can say?
On the next day we went to St Marys and walked about a lot. Visited the grand Bronze Age chambered tomb on Porth Hellick Down, followed the Nature Trail up to Holy Vale and on to the Strudel Haus before returning to Hugh Town for beer and dinner on the harbour – a new and seriously overpriced spot. Late boat back to Agnes and tents.
I think Wednesday was on St Agnes and fairly leisurely. Once again we ate in camp, Jerry and I augmenting the vegetarian meal with a burger or two from the campsite shop – Troytown Farm beef in the burgers. Later learnt that Mary Wilson died on this day – she had been living on the edge of Hugh Town since Harold died – I think.
Thursday was our last day. When we packed our tents the thrushes were waiting. As soon as one was rolled up the birds hit the pale grass, stuffing their beaks with small slugs which appeared to thrive under the groundsheets, in the dark and damp.
They were just as keen to get inside our tents – in case we’d left anything edible out. As pests go there are acceptable. Spent the morning exploring Wingletang Down (the south end of Agnes – a low level granite moorland with pleasing rock outcrops.
Not all of them natural! And in the case of this snowman, not even on Wingletang Down.
The big rock supporting another rock is called Punchbowl on the map, but I think of it as Penis Rock. And on the far left is a big outcrop which may have a name, or not, but it will always be Armadillo Rock to me. You might spot its snout, mouth and left eye at the left-hand end.
After a few hours I headed back to the Turks Head and jetty for final beer here and departure. On the way I saw this delightful granite and timber seat at the west end of Gugh Bar. Sat there for a while until the thought of beer drove me on. The 4pm sailing to Penzance, a fine fish pie in the Admiral Benbow and back to Stacey and the Honeydew Guest House for a real bed.
After a fine cooked breakfast we set of for Honiton for coffee, where I said goodbye to Jerry and Tony and my big rucksack, and hello to Paul . And we headed to his place in Sidmouth, then out for lunch at the ever delightful Swan (a Young’s house). After a little rest and some music we took a stroll around Sidmouth – Paul is following his doctor’s advice and walking for an hour every day. In the evening his sister-in-law, Shirley, joined us and we walked to a delightful fish restaurant (Neil’s) for dinner. Grilled sardines as starter and Baked hake for main, they had puddings, I had another glass of red.
Next day Paul had fully planned out. We went to Dart Farm Shop to buy some beers. They have a huge selection, with the biggest range being from Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and Dorset.
Just a quarter of the shelves here. Bought a Proper Job to celebrate Cornwall and the holiday, plus a couple of others:
Here are the empties at the end of the day. The Wheat Beer from Sam Smith’s was not as good as the Maisels from the Pump House in Brighton, but bigger bottle and half the price made up some of the taste shortfall. Arbor’s Citra was just stunning, as ever.
After beer shopping and a coffee and wander around Topsham we motored to Exmouth to follow a 5 mile circular walk Paul had extracted from a local newspaper. Went to the beginning of the Jurassic Coast, marked with a fine pyramid of Jurassic rocks. We also passed a fine high terrace of houses which included homes belonging to the wives of Byron and Nelson. The wives lived here after their husbands had gone off with other women. Byron Court is here: